Day 16 on the Elbe Cycle Route

Today, we decided a break is in order.  With wind gusts predicted to be in the 40 mph range with rain, today seemed like a good day to catch a train downriver! Hitzacker to Hamburg.

We traded in our bike seats for train seats! With 640 miles behind us, we decided to cut 68 miles out of our remaining 150-mile trip to the North Sea. That leaves us with around 80 miles to cover on the bikes.

Our train from Hitzacker to Hamburg didn’t leave until noon, so we wandered through the quiet cobbled streets of the old town.

Don’t tell Tycho that we gave affection to another scrawny, white-faced black dog. She’d never forgive us!

The ride to Hamburg was smooth. Still, we always get a little anxious about whether there’ll be enough bike space. Cyclists are required to buy separate tickets for bikes, and spots can fill fast.

On the second leg, our worries disappeared—there was an entire car just for bikes, called the Bicycle Wagon.

Hamburg is Germany’s second-largest city and they have a bustling central station. Sheets of rain greeted us on arrival, and though our hotel was only a five-minute bike ride away, we arrived completely soaked. So glad we weren’t on the trail when the blowing rain hit!

Dinner was at a cozy nearby pub, lively with locals ducking in from the sideways rain.

Bob went classic with schnitzel. I tried Labskaus—a Northern German dish linked to Hamburg’s seafaring past. It’s mashed potatoes, corned beef, onions, and beetroot (which turns it pink), topped with fried eggs and served with pickled herring, pickles, and beets. I’m glad I tried it…but once is enough.

Tomorrow we’re back on the bikes and bound for the historic town of Stade, said to be one of the most beautiful places in Northern Germany. The forecast promises clearer skies, but the wind will keep things interesting.

Gute Nacht, Freunde!