Elbe Cycle Route Day 2: Vrchlabí to Jaromeřě

Quick note before we dive in: if you received an email notification about this post—hurrah! Hopefully the issues with missed notifications are behind us. I spent some time on the phone with blog tech support today, and our very kind hotel host even let me borrow the reception computer to help get things sorted this morning. Fingers crossed it worked!

Now onto the ride.

Second day on the Elbe Cycle Route! The rain joined us the moment we rolled out of Vrchlabí, but that didn’t dampen our spirits.

The path was wonderfully varied—two-lane highways, smooth dedicated bike paths, and even some single-track trails through the forest. We were especially impressed by Czech drivers, who give cyclists plenty of room. (Some Ohio drivers could take notes here!)

We stopped in the quiet little town of Hostinné for pizza and a coke for lunch.

According to legend, Hostinné was once terrorized by giants in the Middle Ages… but don’t worry, they were turned to stone and now stand guard at the town hall.

Throughout the day we crossed the Elbe River multiple times. At one point, we rolled up to what looked like a fairy-tale setting—the Royal Forest Dam. It has the look of a medieval castle, though in reality it was built in the early 1900s. Still, it made for a fun river crossing and some great photos.

The afternoon brought a mix of forest trails, golden hay fields dotted with round bales, and quirky farmhouses that made the miles go by quickly.

We were definitely on the backroads today.

In some places, we had dedicated bike trails that were freshly paved. Delightful!

We landed in Jaroměř for the night. Though it feels like a larger town, the old center where we’re staying is pretty sleepy.

We set out for dinner at a beer garden just around the corner, only to be greeted with a cheerful: “No food—just beer.”  So, of course, we had the only beer on tap—cold and refreshing.

Dinner ended up being Chinese food at the restaurant below our hotel. Not our usual pick when traveling abroad, but it was exactly what two hungry bikers needed. And it was delicious!

Our room tonight is less posh than some of our previous stops—top floor, no windows, just a skylight that doesn’t open. Thankfully, there’s a small portable AC unit; without it, the attic heat would be unbearable.

One of these eclectic looking buildings is the back of our hotel… and our skylight.

After dinner we wandered around the old downtown. Bob summed it up well: Jaroměř feels like a time capsule of communism. You can tell it was once a nice place, but it hasn’t been modernized—still charming in its own worn way.

Mileage update: 33 miles yesterday, 39 miles today, and a little farther tomorrow. Onward!

Na shledanou (‘see you later’)!